Herring "Roe on Kelp"

One of the most unusual methods of collecting any form of fish roe is the traditional method of collecting seaweed which has become naturally covered in herring roe. From San Francisco up the US pacific coast to British Columbia and north into Alaska's Bristol Bay and beyond, herring muster in huge frenzied shoals, releasing their eggs and milt in the water. At certain favoured locations, these orgasmic gatherings can create a white bloom along the coastal shallows that are clearly visible from the air.

It is in certain areas with such a density of herring roe in the water column, that the roe on kelp harvest is richest. Formerly kelp covered in roe was collected at low tide along the coast. In order to gain even more control of the density of roe coverage on both sides of the kelp and the variety of kelp- it is now common practice to pre-select the kelp species and hang long fronds from floating rafts. Rather like underwater flypaper- except in this case it is the eggs that are sticky and the kelp acts as a perfect substrate. Multiple layers of eggs are deposited on top of one another, being sticky, once the first layer settles onto the kelp, more and more become attached. This builds up a thick crust like covering many times thicker that the now encased kelp frond.

This is very much a small, local and traditional harvest, with the majority of those involved being First Nation people. It is also much more environmentally sound as the spawning fish are not harmed and can return the following season to spawn again.

Around 500 tons of roe on kelp is harvested annually, with British Columbia accounting for 80% of the global production. There is now a "Spawn on Kelp Operators Association" (SOKOA) which was established to ensure that a sustainable approach is maintained across the industry. The good thing about the high price is that it means that even a restricted harvest of roe on kelp each spring season can have an important impact on the annual finances of the those people whose traditional fishing practices have been hurt by over-fishing by the big seine net trawlers.

This unique combination of a layer of creamy rich eggs, with a crunch to them, encapsulating the mineral rich seaweed ensures roe on kelp a gourmet niche all of its own.

The Japanese rate herring roe very highly, with the more expensive roe on kelp being served at New Year, the largest festival of the calendar. So popular is it that the spring harvest is usually spoken for by mid summer as people secure it for their festivities later in the year.

The roe on spawn is cured in whole fronds, which can be later cut down into strips. As most of the roe on kelp is consumed over New Year, it has become a popular gift item. The Japanese translation of roe on kelp approximates to "lots of babies" and it thus carries with it fertility connotations- always an effective marketing point.

Gourmet's note
Roe on Kelp is quite unique, it is normally supplied vacuum packed in brine. It can then be frozen for up to a year. Before use it should be rinsed thoroughly under a tap for a few minutes until the salty taste is just right.

The Japanese treatment of roe on kelp tends towards the raw, often marinating it in a mix of sake and soya sauce. The local fishing communities who collect the roe enjoy it blanched or pan fried. Whatever method of preparation you choose, the texture and flavour are best retained with the minimum of cooking.

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